Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume 2022
Domaine William Fèvre · Domaine William Fèvre
This is essence before ornament made manifest in a glass. Where many Chablis producers chase richness or oak influence, William Fèvre's Fourchaume 2022 trusts the terroir to do the talking. The Kimmeridgian fossil-studded limestone shines through with uncompromising clarity. Alongside the issue's other selections — the unadorned honesty of Old Bardstown Estate, the single-estate purity of Tequila Ocho, the stripped-back integrity of Benromach Organic — this Chablis reminds us that the most eloquent wines are those that get out of the way of what the earth has already said.
Nose
An exercise in restraint and purity: wet limestone dominates, followed by white peach, crushed oyster shell, and a whisper of chamomile. There is a saline minerality that speaks of the Kimmeridgian clay before any fruit ornament enters the frame. Lemon zest arrives late, delicate and unhurried.
Palate
Taut and precise, with a chalky spine that carries the wine from entry to mid-palate with impressive discipline. Ripe pear and green apple emerge around a core of flinty mineral tension. The texture is lean but not austere — there is just enough flesh to remind you this is Fourchaume, the most generous of Chablis's premier crus, yet Fèvre keeps everything tightly coiled. A thread of salinity runs beneath white flower notes.
Finish
Long and linear, tapering to crushed rock and a lingering iodine-tinged citrus. The mineral echo persists well after the fruit has faded, like the memory of the soil outlasting the season's harvest. Clean, exact, and deeply satisfying.
- Organic / Biodynamic
- No
- Skin Contact
- No
Cocktail Suggestion
The Fossil Record — Pour 4 oz chilled Domaine William Fèvre Chablis Premier Cru Fourchaume into a rocks glass over a single large ice cube. Add 1 oz sparkling mineral water (high mineral content such as Gerolsteiner), ½ oz fresh lemon juice, and ¼ oz elderflower liqueur. Stir gently once. Garnish with a thin strip of lemon peel and a sprig of fresh thyme laid across the rim. The mineral water amplifies the wine's chalky backbone while elderflower adds just enough sweetness to echo Fourchaume's generous side.
Food Pairing
A half-dozen fresh Kumamoto oysters served on crushed ice with a mignonette of finely minced shallot, cracked white pepper, and Chardonnay vinegar. The briny sweetness of the Kumamotos mirrors the wine's saline minerality, while the mignonette's sharp acidity dances alongside the Chablis's citrus edge. Together they create a feedback loop of sea and stone — the ancient oyster fossils in the soil meeting their living counterparts on the plate. Essence meeting essence, ornament nowhere to be found.
William Fèvre was a controversial figure in Chablis — a vocal opponent of appellation expansion who believed the unique Kimmeridgian limestone soils were Chablis's irreplaceable soul. His domaine, now stewarded by Bouchard Père & Fils but still bearing his name and his philosophy, holds the largest estate of grand and premier cru vineyards in the appellation. Fourchaume, on the right bank of the Serein river, faces southwest and catches warmth that brings gentle ripeness, yet the ancient seabed beneath — packed with tiny Exogyra virgula oyster fossils from the Late Jurassic — insists on minerality. The 2022 vintage was warm and dry, which in lesser terroirs might produce blowsy wines. But the deep clay-limestone of Fourchaume acted as a reservoir, feeding the Chardonnay vines steadily through summer's heat, preserving the acid backbone that is Chablis's birthright. No new oak touches this wine. The marrow of the place — the fossils, the chalk, the river air — is allowed to speak without ornament.
Be the first to comment.
Leave a comment
Dry Creek Chenin Blanc
Dry Creek Vineyard
Dry Creek Vineyard has championed Chenin Blanc in California for decades, and this bottling is a quiet testament to why the grape deserves more attention. It delivers warmth and generosity without excess—an approachable, food-friendly white that offers far more complexity than its modest price suggests. A wine that communicates comfort before you even find the words.
Chablis, Louis Michel
Louis Michel & Fils
Louis Michel & Fils is one of Chablis' great purists, eschewing oak entirely in favor of stainless steel to let the limestone terroir shine with absolute transparency. This is clarity through constraint made liquid—proof that restraint in winemaking yields the most eloquent expression of place. A benchmark village Chablis that punches well above its price.
Famille Hugel Gewürztraminer Alsace 2022
Famille Hugel
Hugel's estate-level Gewürztraminer is an ideal entry into the grape — aromatic and expressive without tipping into heaviness. The 2022 vintage shows purity of fruit and the benefit of Alsace's continental climate, where warm days and cool nights preserve acidity in a variety that can lose it. This is the bottle to pair with spiced cuisine or to enjoy on its own as an education in aromatics.
Domaine Bott-Geyl Riesling Grand Cru Mandelberg 2022
Domaine Bott-Geyl
Bott-Geyl's biodynamic approach to the Mandelberg vineyard yields a Riesling of remarkable purity. This is a wine that tastes like its origin — limestone, sun, and the careful hand of a grower who trusts the vine to speak for itself. Grand Cru Alsace at a price that remains approachable.