The Still & The VineSchool of Wine & Spirits

Issue 205 · October 17, 2026

The Well Between Walls

Theme: Hidden Sources, Open Glasses

This issue explores the quiet reservoirs of flavor that live between boundaries — between old and new, between tradition and experiment, between what a label promises and what the liquid delivers.

The Well Between Walls
The Still & The Vine by School of Wine and Spirits
Issue No. 205 — October 17, 2026
Your daily discovery of 8 exceptional wines and spirits

Every maker works between walls. There's the wall of tradition — what's expected, what's been done — and the wall of ambition, where instinct pulls toward something untested. The most compelling bottles come from the space between those boundaries, where a distiller or winemaker draws from a hidden well of knowledge, technique, or terroir that no one else quite reaches.

Today's eight selections each tap into that liminal space. From a bourbon distillery reclaiming its heritage grain to a Sicilian white born on volcanic slopes, these are bottles that reward the drinker who asks not just what's in the glass, but what invisible forces shaped it.

Today's aroma training thread runs from resinous juniper to volcanic mineral, exploring how different raw materials — grain, agave, grape, sugarcane — express the concept of terroir through scent. Pay attention to how earthy and mineral notes appear across categories in completely different forms.

Don’t see your special bottle? Request a review at reviews.schoolofwineandspirits.com/request-review — we’ll get to it. See every bottle we’ve reviewed to date at reviews.schoolofwineandspirits.com.

In This Issue

Bourbon Benchmark Old No. 8 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Benchmark Old No. 8 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Born from the same storied limestone spring and copper stills that produce some of America's most coveted whiskeys, Benchmark Old No. 8 is Buffalo Trace's quiet, unpretentious secret — proof that greatness sometimes hides in plain sight on the bottom shelf.

Classification: Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Brand: Benchmark

Distillery: Buffalo Trace Distillery

Proof: 80 (40% ABV)

Age: NAS

Color: Pale gold with warm amber edges

MSRP: $10–$18

Mash Bill: Buffalo Trace Mash Bill #1 (believed to be approximately 10% or less rye, with corn and malted barley)

Barrel Type: New charred oak

Nose: Clean and approachable with gentle waves of caramel corn and vanilla custard. Faint wisps of toasted grain and a light floral note emerge with patience, suggesting depths beyond its humble packaging.

Palate: Soft entry of buttered corn and brown sugar with a light rye spice that builds slowly at mid-palate. There's a pleasant nuttiness and a touch of baking spice that keeps things interesting without complexity overwhelming the easy-drinking character.

Finish: Short but clean, fading with light caramel sweetness and a whisper of oak tannin.

The Verdict: Benchmark Old No. 8 is the hidden well beneath the walls of Buffalo Trace's storied campus — the same legendary limestone-filtered water, the same meticulous distillation, packaged without fanfare at a price that defies logic. It won't compete with its higher-shelf siblings for depth, but as an everyday sipper or cocktail foundation, it punches remarkably above its weight and rewards anyone willing to look past the label.

Cocktail — The Hidden Spring — 2 oz Benchmark Old No. 8 · 0.75 oz honey syrup (1:1) · 0.5 oz fresh lemon juice · 2 dashes Angostura bitters · Stir honey syrup with bourbon to dissolve, add lemon and bitters, shake with ice, strain into a rocks glass over a large cube, garnish with a lemon twist.

Pair with: A wedge of cast-iron skillet cornbread, its edges crisped golden and caramelized, served warm with a generous spread of salted honey butter. The corn-forward sweetness of the bourbon mirrors the cornmeal's toasty depth while the honey butter echoes the whiskey's caramel notes.

Scotch Whisky Benriach The Twenty Five Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Benriach The Twenty Five Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Benriach has distilled in Elgin since 1898, and its signature style — layering peated, unpeated, and triple-distilled malts across diverse cask types — gives its aged expressions a rare dimensionality.

Classification: Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Brand: Benriach

Distillery: Benriach Distillery

Proof: 92 (46% ABV)

Age: 25 Year

Color: Burnished amber with deep gold highlights

MSRP: $350–$450

Region: Speyside

Mash Bill: 100% malted barley

Distillation: Pot still distillation

Maturation: Matured in a combination of bourbon, sherry, and virgin oak casks for a minimum of 25 years

Cask Type: Bourbon, sherry, and virgin oak casks

Peat Level (PPM): Combination of peated and unpeated malt

Chill-Filtered: Non-chill filtered

Nose: Dried apricot and peach open alongside beeswax honey and toasted almond. A gentle wave of vanilla and clove spice arrives, with a distant wisp of peat smoke adding complexity without dominance.

Palate: Silky and layered — dried fruit and dark cocoa weave through a core of malt sweetness. Oak tannins are perfectly integrated, contributing woody depth and a faint coconut note. The mid-palate reveals earthy undertones and a hint of rosewater.

Finish: Exceptionally long, with lingering honey, gentle smoke, and a final whisper of dried fruit and hazelnut.

The Verdict: This is Benriach at its most contemplative — a quarter-century of Speyside maturation that balances fruit, malt, and subtle smoke with the confidence of deep age. It never shouts, but every sip reveals another layer. A whisky for the patient drinker.

Pair with: The nutty, crystalline sweetness of aged Comté amplifies the whisky's almond and honey notes, while fig compote bridges the dried fruit character on the palate.

Irish Whiskey Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey

Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey

From a distillery that has drawn water from the River Bush and Saint Columb's Rill since 1608, Bushmills Original is the quiet wellspring that feeds one of Ireland's most enduring whiskey traditions.

Classification: Blended Irish Whiskey

Brand: Bushmills

Distillery: Old Bushmills Distillery

Proof: 80 (40% ABV)

Age: NAS

Color: Pale gold with honeyed highlights

MSRP: $22–$30

Mash Bill: Blend of triple-distilled single malt and grain whiskey; malted barley for the malt component

Distillation: Triple distilled in copper pot stills (malt component) and column distilled (grain component)

Maturation: Aged in a combination of ex-bourbon and ex-sherry casks

Chill-Filtered: Yes

Nose: Light and approachable, with fresh grain, gentle honey, and a whisper of vanilla. Subtle green apple and a faint floral note linger beneath the malt.

Palate: Smooth and easy-drinking, with creamy vanilla, toasted grain, and a light touch of milk chocolate. A mild fruitiness emerges mid-palate alongside delicate biscuit notes.

Finish: Clean and short, with lingering grain sweetness and a wisp of white pepper.

The Verdict: Bushmills Original is the quietly dependable wellspring behind countless Irish whiskey cocktails — a hidden source that many drink without ever pausing to consider. Its triple-distilled smoothness and honest simplicity make it a foundation bottle that punches above its modest price point.

Cocktail — The Hidden Well — 2 oz Bushmills Original · 0.75 oz honey syrup · 0.5 oz fresh lemon juice · 2 dashes Angostura bitters · Shake with ice, strain into a coupe, garnish with a lemon twist

Pair with: Thinly sliced cold-smoked salmon on toasted sourdough with crème fraîche, capers, and fresh dill — the whiskey's gentle sweetness and clean grain character complement the delicate smoke and brininess of the fish.

Awards: Gold Medal, International Wine & Spirit Competition 2023

Tequila Tequila Orendain Ollitas Reposado

Tequila Orendain Ollitas Reposado

Founded in 1926, the Orendain family helped shape the modern tequila industry from their base in the town of Tequila itself, yet their bottles remain one of the category's best-kept secrets north of the border—a wellspring hidden behind more famous walls.

Classification: Reposado Tequila

Brand: Orendain

Distillery: Tequila Orendain de Jalisco S.A. de C.V.

Proof: 80 (40% ABV)

Age: Reposado (2–11 months)

Color: Pale straw gold with honeyed edges

MSRP: $25–$35

Agave: 100% Blue Weber Agave (Agave tequilana)

Cooking Method: Traditional brick ovens (hornos) for slow-cooking agave piñas, roller mill extraction, fermented with natural yeast in open-air tanks, double-distilled in copper pot stills, rested in American white oak barrels.

NOM: NOM 1110

Nose: Bright cooked agave leads the way, supported by citrus zest and a whisper of fresh-cut grass. A gentle earthiness rises beneath, along with subtle notes of white pepper and toasted oak.

Palate: Medium-bodied and pleasantly oily, delivering sweet roasted agave balanced by a minerally backbone. Warm cinnamon spice threads through honey and baked pear, with a faint herbaceous quality that keeps things lively.

Finish: Clean and moderate, fading through soft vanilla, dried herbs, and a lingering mineral dryness that invites the next sip.

The Verdict: Orendain is one of tequila's oldest and most significant producers, yet it remains remarkably under-the-radar outside of Mexico—a hidden wellspring in plain sight. This reposado delivers honest, balanced agave character at a price that makes it a daily-driver standout. It rewards attention without demanding a premium, proving that the best sources aren't always the loudest.

Cocktail — The Hidden Well — 2 oz Orendain Ollitas Reposado · ¾ oz fresh lime juice · ½ oz honey syrup (2:1) · 2 dashes celery bitters · Shake with ice, strain into a chilled coupe, garnish with a thin cucumber ribbon.

Pair with: Charred corn kernels tossed with crumbled cotija cheese, fresh epazote, lime juice, and a touch of chile de árbol mirror the tequila's roasted-sweet agave core while the cheese's salinity draws out hidden mineral notes.

Gin Sipsmith London Cup

Sipsmith London Cup

Inspired by the Victorian-era tradition of gin cups — secret botanical blends designed for garden parties behind London's high-walled townhouses — Sipsmith's London Cup channels a hidden world of English botanicals through their signature copper pot stills.

Classification: Gin-Based Cup

Brand: Sipsmith

Distillery: Sipsmith Distillery

Proof: 58.6 (29.3% ABV)

Age: NAS

Color: Warm copper-amber with a rosy blush

MSRP: $30–$40

Style: Gin Cup (English Summer Cup style)

Botanicals: Juniper, lemon verbena, Earl Grey tea, borage, cucumber, dried rose petals, orange peel, cassia bark, coriander seed, angelica root

Base Spirit: Grain neutral spirit

Distillation: Pot-distilled in Sipsmith's copper pot stills (Prudence and Patience) using a maceration of over ten botanicals including Earl Grey tea, lemon verbena, borage, and cucumber, then blended with natural botanicals post-distillation

Nose: An immediate rush of Earl Grey tea and lemon verbena, wrapped in dried rose petals and a whisper of borage. Beneath the bright top notes, a quiet juniper-herbal backbone emerges, evoking an English garden walled away from the street. A hint of cucumber peel and bitter orange marmalade rounds out a complex, layered bouquet.

Palate: Silky and surprisingly deep for its gentle proof, with lemon curd, chamomile honey, and a pronounced floral character that straddles lavender and rose water. Mid-palate, warming spice from cassia bark and a touch of ginger emerge, while the juniper stays present but politely restrained. Sweet vermouth-like herbal richness provides an almost wine-like body.

Finish: Medium-length and refreshing, trailing off with dried orange peel, a lingering floral sweetness, and the faintest echo of Earl Grey tannin.

The Verdict: Sipsmith London Cup is a love letter to the English tradition of summer cups — a style of drink whose origins hide behind garden walls and afternoon rituals. It rewards those who look past the modest proof to discover genuine botanical complexity, making it a perfect fit for the theme of hidden sources revealed. An effortless warm-weather sipper that punches well above its weight.

Cocktail — The Walled Garden Cup — 3 oz Sipsmith London Cup · 4 oz chilled English sparkling wine or lemonade · 1 oz fresh strawberry purée · Muddle fresh mint and cucumber in the glass · Build over ice in a tall glass · Garnish with a long cucumber ribbon and a sprig of borage

Pair with: Delicate smoked trout and peppery watercress on thin brown bread with crème fraîche and a squeeze of lemon — the smoky richness of the fish mirrors the cup's herbal depth, while the watercress echoes its botanical bite and the crème fraîche balances its gentle sweetness.

Rum Damoiseau Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP

Damoiseau Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP

Drawing from a hidden artesian well that bores deep beneath the limestone plateau of Grande-Terre, Damoiseau transforms Guadeloupe's unseen subterranean water into one of the most quietly expressive agricole rhums in the French Caribbean.

Classification: Rhum Agricole Vieux VSOP

Brand: Damoiseau

Distillery: Distillerie Bellevue (Damoiseau)

Proof: 84 (42% ABV)

Age: Minimum 4 Year

Color: Rich amber with warm copper reflections

MSRP: $40–$55

Base Ingredients: Fresh sugarcane juice (vesou)

Distillation: Single column still distillation of fresh-pressed sugarcane juice

Nose: An inviting bouquet of fresh-cut sugarcane and ripe banana gives way to warm vanilla custard and toasted coconut. Underneath lies a subtle mineral quality, like river stones warmed by the sun, with wisps of baking spice and dried orange peel.

Palate: Silky and medium-bodied, the palate opens with caramelized brown sugar and toffee before revealing a bright agricole backbone of grassy cane juice and white pepper. Tropical mango and guava notes interweave with toasted oak and a touch of dark chocolate.

Finish: Medium-long and elegant, with lingering cane sweetness, warm cinnamon, and a clean mineral echo that recalls the volcanic limestone aquifer beneath the Bellevue estate.

The Verdict: Damoiseau's VSOP is a masterclass in how terroir can hide in plain sight—Guadeloupe's unique Grande-Terre limestone plateau filtered into every sip through the distillery's deep artesian well. At its price point, it delivers remarkable complexity and a pure agricole character that rewards slow contemplation.

Cocktail — The Limestone Well — 2 oz Damoiseau VSOP · 0.75 oz fresh lime juice · 0.5 oz orgeat · 0.25 oz cane syrup · Shake with crushed ice · Pour into a rocks glass · Garnish with a lime wheel and freshly grated nutmeg

Pair with: The rhum's grassy cane backbone and tropical fruit notes mirror the bright mango salsa, while its oak-driven warmth stands up to the char on the swordfish. A side of coconut rice and grilled plantains completes the pairing, echoing the coconut and toffee threads in the spirit.

Awards: Gold Medal, Concours Général Agricole de Paris

Red Wine Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Rouge 2021

Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Rouge 2021

From schist soils tended by draft horses on hidden Languedoc hillsides, Didier Barral's biodynamic estate channels a secret underground world of rock and root into the glass.

Classification: Faugères AOC

Brand: Domaine Léon Barral

Winery: Domaine Léon Barral

ABV: 13.0%

Primary Varietal: Mourvèdre

Blend: Mourvèdre, Grenache, Carignan, Cinsault — old vines averaging 50+ years

Vineyards: Estate vineyards on steep schist slopes in Lenthéric, Faugères AOC, farmed biodynamically with horse-drawn plows

Maturation: Whole-cluster fermentation with native yeasts, gentle extraction, and minimal sulfur use throughout. Aged in large neutral oak foudres with no fining or filtration.

Color: Deep garnet with violet edges and an inky core

MSRP: $28–$38

Nose: A rush of crushed blackcurrant and wild garrigue herbs greets the glass, layered over damp earth and iron-rich minerality. Deeper breathing reveals violet florals and a hint of smoked meat. There is an unmistakable sense of terroir — the schist soils of Faugères seem to rise right out of the wine.

Palate: Dense and sinewy, with dark cherry and blackcurrant fruit supported by finely grained tannins and a bracing mineral spine. Dried herbs, cracked pepper, and a saline undertone give the mid-palate remarkable complexity. The texture is at once generous and tensile, with the kind of natural density that comes from old-vine concentration and biodynamic farming.

Finish: Long and savory, with lingering notes of graphite, dried lavender, and iron-tinged dark fruit. The minerality echoes well past the last sip.

The Verdict: Didier Barral is one of the Languedoc's most uncompromising vignerons, farming biodynamically with draft horses on ancient schist hillsides that few outsiders ever see. This 2021 is a stunning expression of hidden terroir made transparent — wild, earthy, and deeply alive. At its modest price point, it punches alongside wines costing three times as much.

Pair with: A lamb shoulder braised low and slow with rosemary, thyme, and savory mirrors the wine's garrigue character, while the meat's richness softens the tannins. Serve alongside gratin dauphinois and wilted greens dressed with olive oil and fleur de sel.

White Wine Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño Rías Baixas 2023

Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño Rías Baixas 2023

Fillaboa's 18th-century estate in the Val do Tea subzone draws from granite-rich soils watered by underground springs that feed the Río Tea, a hidden hydrological network that quietly shapes one of Galicia's most contemplative Albariños.

Classification: Rías Baixas DO

Brand: Fillaboa

ABV: 12.5%

Primary Varietal: Albariño

Blend: 100% Albariño

Vineyards: Estate vineyards in the Val do Tea subzone of Rías Baixas, planted on decomposed granite soils at elevations up to 100 meters above the Río Tea

Vinification: Hand-harvested fruit fermented at controlled temperatures in stainless steel, followed by sur lie aging for approximately 3 months with periodic bâtonnage

Color: Pale straw with bright greenish-gold reflections

MSRP: $16–$22

Nose: The nose opens with a rush of white peach and Granny Smith apple, underscored by a saline, mineral thread that hints at the Atlantic breezes sweeping through the Val do Tea subzone. Delicate notes of lemon blossom and wet stone emerge with time in the glass, giving the aromatics a meditative quiet.

Palate: On the palate, the wine is taut and focused, with ripe melon and citrus pith layered over a crystalline acidity that keeps everything moving. A subtle waxy texture adds weight without heaviness, while a thread of white pepper and green almond adds unexpected complexity.

Finish: The finish is long and saline, with lingering notes of crushed limestone and a gentle echo of honeydew that invites another sip.

The Verdict: Fillaboa's estate sits above the Río Tea, and the granite-laden soils deliver an Albariño of understated power—one that rewards patience and attention. This is a wine that reveals itself slowly, much like the hidden spring-fed wells that once sustained the ancient property, making it a perfect fit for the theme of concealed sources yielding transparent pleasures.

Pair with: Plump, caramelized scallops paired with a bright lemon beurre blanc and a scattering of chives mirror the wine's interplay of richness and acidity, while the shellfish's natural sweetness amplifies the melon and saline notes on the palate.

Awards: James Suckling 92 points (2023 vintage)

Train Your Nose: Today's Aroma Spotlight

Today's aroma training thread runs from resinous juniper to volcanic mineral, exploring how different raw materials — grain, agave, grape, sugarcane — express the concept of terroir through scent. Pay attention to how earthy and mineral notes appear across categories in completely different forms.

Each bottle below maps to aromas you can isolate with your kit before your next pour — then see if you catch them in the glass.

Today's Kit Reference

Today's Product Key Aromas Train With
Benchmark Old No. 8 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey (Bourbon) Corn, Vanilla, Caramel, Malt, Oak Bourbon Kit
Benriach The Twenty Five Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky (Scotch Whisky) Dried Fruit, Honey, Peach, Clove Spice, Cocoa (Dark), Smoky Whisky Kit
Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey (Irish Whiskey) Honey, Vanilla, Malt, Green (Cut Grass), Buttery Whiskey Kit
Tequila Orendain Ollitas Reposado (Tequila) Agave (Cooked), Citrus (Lemon, Lime, Orange, Grapefruit), Cinnamon, Earth (Mineral, Soil Notes), Vanilla Tequila Kit
Sipsmith London Cup (Gin) Lemon, Floral (Rose), Chamomile, Cassia Bark, Orange, Lavender Gin Kit
Damoiseau Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP (Rum) Agricole, Vanilla, Tropical Fruits, Toffee, Coconut, Spice (Generic) Rum Kit
Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Rouge 2021 (Red Wine) Blackcurrant, Gamey, Violet, Green Peppers, Cedar Wine Kit
Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño Rías Baixas 2023 (White Wine) Melon, Apple (Green), Citrus (Generic), Honey, Gooseberry Wine Kit

Explore the School of Wine and Spirits

Train your nose to find the hidden well in every glass — our aroma kits give you the reference points to decode these bottles at home. Our Aroma Masterclass Kits are designed to teach it to you, one aroma at a time.

Our books on Amazon go deeper into the science and history behind every sip — from America's Spirit, Scotland's Spirit, Ireland's Spirit, The Ultimate Northern Italian Wine Journey, The Tequila y Mezcal Revolution, Chablis, and Côte d'Or pocket guides.

Explore our Aroma Masterclass kits and books at schoolofwineandspirits.com

Join the School of Wine and Spirits Community

Connect with fellow connoisseurs, share tasting notes, and go deeper into every pour.
Sign up at skool.com/schoolofwineandspirits

The best flavor lives between the obvious notes — keep training, keep tasting, and the walls come down.

Until tomorrow's pour — cheers.

Free guide: The 90% Gap — 90% of flavor is aroma, not taste. The 30-second test that proves it, and how to train your nose at home. Get the guide →

The Still & The Vine is a daily publication of the School of Wine and Spirits.

In This Issue
Benriach The Twenty Five Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky
Scotch Whisky

Benriach The Twenty Five Year Old Speyside Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Benriach

This is Benriach at its most contemplative — a quarter-century of Speyside maturation that balances fruit, malt, and subtle smoke with the confidence of deep age. It never shouts, but every sip reveals another layer. A whisky for the patient drinker.

$40092 proof
Tequila Orendain Ollitas Reposado
Tequila

Tequila Orendain Ollitas Reposado

Orendain

Orendain is one of tequila's oldest and most significant producers, yet it remains remarkably under-the-radar outside of Mexico—a hidden wellspring in plain sight. This reposado delivers honest, balanced agave character at a price that makes it a daily-driver standout. It rewards attention without demanding a premium, proving that the best sources aren't always the loudest.

$3080 proof
Sipsmith London Cup
Gin

Sipsmith London Cup

Sipsmith

Sipsmith London Cup is a love letter to the English tradition of summer cups — a style of drink whose origins hide behind garden walls and afternoon rituals. It rewards those who look past the modest proof to discover genuine botanical complexity, making it a perfect fit for the theme of hidden sources revealed. An effortless warm-weather sipper that punches well above its weight.

$3558.6 proof
Damoiseau Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP
Rum

Damoiseau Rhum Vieux Agricole VSOP

Damoiseau

Damoiseau's VSOP is a masterclass in how terroir can hide in plain sight—Guadeloupe's unique Grande-Terre limestone plateau filtered into every sip through the distillery's deep artesian well. At its price point, it delivers remarkable complexity and a pure agricole character that rewards slow contemplation.

$4884 proof
Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Rouge 2021
Red Wine

Domaine Léon Barral Faugères Rouge 2021

Domaine Léon Barral

Didier Barral is one of the Languedoc's most uncompromising vignerons, farming biodynamically with draft horses on ancient schist hillsides that few outsiders ever see. This 2021 is a stunning expression of hidden terroir made transparent — wild, earthy, and deeply alive. At its modest price point, it punches alongside wines costing three times as much.

$33
Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño Rías Baixas 2023
White Wine

Bodegas Fillaboa Albariño Rías Baixas 2023

Fillaboa

Fillaboa's estate sits above the Río Tea, and the granite-laden soils deliver an Albariño of understated power—one that rewards patience and attention. This is a wine that reveals itself slowly, much like the hidden spring-fed wells that once sustained the ancient property, making it a perfect fit for the theme of concealed sources yielding transparent pleasures.

$19
Benchmark Old No. 8 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey
Bourbon

Benchmark Old No. 8 Kentucky Straight Bourbon Whiskey

Benchmark

Benchmark Old No. 8 is the hidden well beneath the walls of Buffalo Trace's storied campus — the same legendary limestone-filtered water, the same meticulous distillation, packaged without fanfare at a price that defies logic. It won't compete with its higher-shelf siblings for depth, but as an everyday sipper or cocktail foundation, it punches remarkably above its weight and rewards anyone willing to look past the label.

$1480 proof
Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey
Irish Whiskey

Bushmills Original Irish Whiskey

Bushmills

Bushmills Original is the quietly dependable wellspring behind countless Irish whiskey cocktails — a hidden source that many drink without ever pausing to consider. Its triple-distilled smoothness and honest simplicity make it a foundation bottle that punches above its modest price point.

$2680 proof
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